By June 1941, on the island of Malta, nearly 500 public rock shelters had been finished and another 400 were in progress. At the end of November 1941, the Governor of Malta announced there was space available in a shelter for the whole population of Malta. It is said that there are more streets under Valletta (capital city), than on the surface. Living like ants underground, zig-zagging tunnels allowed residence to traverse the city of Valletta.

Due to the island’s strategic location, Valletta was the most bombed city in WWII. The citizens had no choice but to burrow underground. As I descended the narrow opening of the private bomb shelter, at Casa Rocca Piccola, the Disney like vision I had of a bomb shelter faded. The confines of the dwelling struck first and then the damp, well used air next. Imagining family upon family in this and less spacious shelters gave me a very real image of people having survival thrust to the forefront every day for over a year. Malta was being starved of supplies and the Maltese people along with it.

Visiting the private shelter at Villa Bologna echoed the same sentiments.

Underground too are the Lascaris War Rooms. In 1942, the war was being run from these underground war rooms. Fleets and air squadrons taking orders from the army elite housed 100 feet beneath the surface. Learning of the mechanisms incorporated and the eventual victory was fascinating. With a large map painted on a low platform, fleets of ships and bombers were moved around like playing pieces on a large game board. Motorcycles running from one end of the island to another delivering orders.

With the war being over the passageways beneath the city were closed off, but I would highly recommend visiting one of the bomb shelters and the Lascaris war rooms. Definitely a must do.

We are in Syracuse, Sicily. A piece of paper is slightly torn and the tearing is clearly heard 213 feet away. A resonance of sound so extraordinary it has garnered the world’s attention. The marvel is referred to as Dionysius Ear, Orecchio di Dionisio. 

The 75 foot high limestone opening invites us to enter the 213 foot depth of the ‘S’ shaped cave. Whispers are carried on air as we make our way toward the back of the enclosure. The cave's 25 foot width allows us plenty of room to explore. Our necks crane upward to take in the cave’s entirety. Mentally climbing over the immense ‘wow’, questions of why and when formulate.

Dionysius I (432-367 BC), a cruel, suspicious and vindictive tyrant, had the acoustically adept cave built to house political prisoners. From a focal point, at the top of the cave, Dionysius was able to listen to the plans and secrets of his captives. More morosely, it has been suggested that Dionysius had the acoustically flawless cave built to amplify the screams of prisoners being tortured.

With a more plausible ‘natural origin’ explanation at hand, I dismiss it, preferring to remain in the mysterious world of Greek mythology.

The vast Archaeological Park of Neapolis contains Syracuse’s greatest concentration of ancient ruins. For me, Dionysius Ear, in the ancient quarry (Latomia del Paradiso), most effectively turned me on my 'ear'.