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Further Afield's Journal

Partition of Ireland

Location: 
Belfast
Entry By: 
Joe Fahy our local Irish guide

Travel to Northern Ireland with our local guide and learn why the island of Ireland is divided. 

 

 

Welcome, today we are travelling to Northern Ireland.

As we drive through County Meath I want to mention the farmland we're passing by. This is mostly grassland for the dairy and beef sector. We pride ourselves on the fact that our beef cattle are grass fed from once they leave the farmyards after the winter. The dairy cows go to grass towards the end of March, earlier for the south of the country. Of all the beef that we produce almost 90% is exported. Over 80% of dairy products are exported, butter, cheese, yogurt, powder milk etc.  As we drive through County Louth we see fields after fields of barley and wheat, gently blowing in the wind as if to say welcome. 

We cross the River Boyne using the Mary McAleese Bridge. Named after our 2nd Lady President (from Belfast). We hear the River Boyne mentioned a few times today. As we leave County Louth we cross into County Down and Northern Ireland. Border crossing is easy, as there are no checkpoints.

Before we arrive in Belfast we have to talk about the division of this island. To deal with this issue we have to go back in history. King Henry VIII of England was declared King of Ireland in the 1541 by the Irish parliament; prior to this Kings of England were Lord of Ireland. Having severed his connections with the Catholic Church he needed to rule supreme. To do this he introduced a surrender and regrant rule, in which landowners would surrender the lands to the monarchy and then have it regranted back to them with a title such as Earl or Duke and they also had the protection of the English army from anyone that had a notion of attacking them. Now should these landowners rebel against the monarch their lands would be confiscated. This law was continued for King Edward and Queen Mary reigns. Now comes Queen Elizabeth 1st. Her entitlement was questionable. When Henry VIII declared his marriage to Anne Boleyn invalid, it rendered her illegitimate. The rightful successor was Mary Queen of Scots. Her grandmother Margaret was Henry VIII's sister. The fact that Mary was Catholic, ruling a Protestant parliament gave Elizabeth the throne. Mary's father was James V of Scotland, he died when she was six days old and she was appointed Queen Mary I of Scotland. Her son James VI was to become James I of England. 

The landowners in Northern Ireland (Ulster) had not agreed to hand over their lands and so Elizabeth was threatening to bring in an army. The O'Neill's and the O'Donnell's raised an army to begin what was known as the "Nine Years War" having had many successes. The Spanish King Philip II had promised help in these wars and sent a sizable army. The only problem was they landed in Kinsale 300 miles from where the battles were being fought. The armies from the north march down to Kinsale and in 1601 they suffered a defeat that was to change Irish history.

The wars ended in 1603 the same year as Elizabeth died. Now the Stuarts of Scotland take the throne of England. The lands in Northern Ireland were confiscated. The O'Neills, the O'Donnell's and the other landowners were to leave Ireland forever in what is known as "The Flight of the Earls". Our culture changed at this point. Our laws, which at that time were "The Penal Laws", were gone as was many of our customs. Settlers from Scotland and Northern England were granted lands. The Irish people that owned the land were now employed to work these lands. A Rebellion in 1641 was to cause another visitor to come and take reprisals for same, one Oliver Cromwell. This man had raised an army in England, was a general on the parliamentary side in the English Civil War and brought about the execution of King Charles I. The monarchy was ended, Charles's family fled to France until the restoration in 1660 of Charles II. One of the first things he did was to exhume the body of Oliver Cromwell and charge him with the murder of his father, Charles I. After Cromwell was found guilty, his head was placed on the spikes outside of the Tower of London. Now that is what I call, holding a grudge!

His son James II was to become King in 1685. A Catholic King, unacceptable to parliament. In 1688 James II son-in-law William of Orange (Netherlands) is invited to take the throne. The "glorious revolution" it is called. James fled to France to seek help, which he got, and them to Ireland. He raised an army of about 25, mostly Irish and French. William's numbers were 32,000. 
"The War of the Two Kings goes down in history as "The Battle of the Boyne" fought in 1690 and is still remembered to this day on the 12th of July with marching bands, flags and the Lambeg drums. These marchers are from the Protestant side of the population. 

Belfast has a population of about 320,000 and is a modern city with universities, colleges and a thriving technology centre. Once home to the largest ship building yards in the world, White Star Line and the Titanic, one of the greatest tourist attractions in Europe. Belfast is home to Van Morrison, Snow Patrol, James Galway, George Best, C.S. Lewis, Jamie Dorian, Mary McAleese and many more. Northern Ireland proudly boasts of people like Harry Ferguson (tractor) Lord Kelvin (temperature) Joe Dunlop (vulcanized rubber) present day James Hewitt, Liam Neeson.

Driving through the city, we go up the Falls Road, a Catholic area on one side of the Peace Wall and going through the gates we come down the Shankill Road, the Protestant residential area. Why did Catholics settle in one area and the Protestants in the other? Belfast is a relatively new established city. During the mid 1800's, at the time of the potato famine, which had a devastating affect on the entire country of Ireland, people drifted into Belfast from the outlaying farming areas, because of poverty, to start a new life and survival. They established their own communities with schools and churches, living in separation of each other with enormous emphasis on the religious divide. Religious rivalry existed between the two communities. The wall that divides the two areas was built in the early 1970's to separate the two sections and prevent the nightly incursions from either side with murder in their minds. This wall still remains today. 

Farming in Ireland was run on a landlord and tenant basis for generations. The landlords owned 90% of the land with the farmers renting and working this land as tenant farmers with little or no rights. To rectify this, a home rule bill was brought up in parliament in London and due to be passed into law in 1912. The Protestants in Northern Ireland did not want anything to do with this bill, as the majority of the farming community on the whole of Ireland were mainly Catholics. Their slogan was, "Home Rule, was Roman Rule". An army was raised in Northern Ireland, called the Ulster Defence Association (UDA). A threat of civil war was now imminent in Ireland. Home Rule was to give the self-government for Ireland within the United Kingdom the three F's; Fixity of Tenure, Fair Rent, Free Sale of the tenants interests in the farm. The Home Rule Bill was shelved. 

On the continent of Europe, war was also imminent and broke out in 1914. This was World War One. After the First World War, we had a War of Independence, which lead to the partition of Ireland, meaning the 6 counties of Northern Ireland, which had a Protestant majority under the jurisdiction of Great Britain. The remaining 26 counties of Ireland were given "free state status" to become a Republic in 1948. The 'troubles' as we know them today, started in 1968 with the aim of getting the British to relinquish the jurisdiction of Northern Ireland and continued until 1998.

The Good Friday agreement was signed in 1998 to draw somewhat of a closure to the troubles in Northern Ireland. The troubles lasted for over 30 years and cost 3,700 lives not to mention those injured. It is my hope that this agreement will remain.

 

Motivation to Travel and Explore

Location: 
The World
Entry By: 
Joe

What motivates people to travel?

Learning is a strong reason why people love to travel; sometimes it's more educational than a college class. You may take joy in ordering a meal when you don't speak the language or trying to find your way in a foreign city. 

What made the first explorer want to go further than they could see? Adventure yes but curiosity too. The need for food and return trade also drove people to explore.

For individuals it's no different. Advertising draws your attention to destinations. A sun soaked beach, a rain forest, a river or ocean cruise, to walk the Great Wall of China, to swim at the Great Barrier Reef, a safari drive in Africa, to look in awe at the gardens of Versailles. Lovers of art have an absolute treasure chest of galleries to choose from the world over. The world is the size of a pea, finitely speaking.

Christopher Columbus a seasoned sailor from Italy went to Portugal then Spain, having participated in several trading voyages in the Mediterranean and Aegean Seas. On expeditions to Africa Columbus was to gain a fountain of knowledge of the Atlantic currants flowing east to west from the Canary Islands.

The Asian islands near China and India were fabled for their spices and gold, making them an attractive destination for Europeans. However when Constantinople fell to Muslin domination the trade routes through the Middle East made travel eastward difficult. Columbus devised a route to sail west across the Atlantic to reach India believing it would be quicker and safer.

While Columbus accepted the world being round or sphere shaped he got the distance of the circumference completely incorrect. Other scholars of the time and earlier reckoned it to be about 15,000 miles, he estimated 6,000 miles at most. None of them were near the correct distance of 24,000 miles.

Having been financed by the then King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Spain in return for riches of gold and spices he set sail from the Canary Islands part of Spain off the coast off the coast of Africa with three ships. Land was sighted after 36 days sailing. The island was the Bahamas.  Because of the people's colour he thought they were Indians. He claimed the inland for Spain and continued on to Cuba thinking it to be China. Returning back to Spain he got a tumultuous welcome. He was to carry out a total of four expeditions over the next 10 years. With each voyage his welcomes were becoming less hospitable, stories of the abominations committed by the Spaniards from the New World were filtering homeward.

Motivation to travel to the North and South poles were a test of mans endurance. The Norwegian Ronald Amundsen was the first to reach the South Pole in 1911. He had his sights set on the North Pole but the American Robert Peary had got there in September 1909. Amundsen changed his mind and headed south. The expeditions to the Antarctic became a challenge for these explorers. Robert Scott was a British explorer, who had already tried to reach the South Pole years before hand. He was ready to go again. Amundsen and Scott were rivals. Scott was ill equipped using ponies and dogs. Ponies eat more; they are bigger and have more difficulty through the snow and ice. Amundsen used dogs only a total of 97. He had also got going on the trip earlier. Amundsen got to the South Pole and back with all of his party. Scott got there a little over a month after Amundsen. The sad thing of there return, they all lost their lives. Others, who made the journey, were Shackleton and Wild. Edmund Hillary of New Zealander was the first man to conquer the three poles, climb Mount Everest 1953, South Pole 1958 and the North Pole in the company of Neil Armstrong 1985.

Travel broadens the mind a person once said. To travel, we experiment, we explore, we learn, we make friends and most of all we see the world is big but small when you plan to discover it. 

Machu Picchu

Location: 
Peru
Entry By: 
Joe

Tucked away in the Andes, the ruins of Machu Picchu reveal the mysteries of the Inca Empire 

Tucked away in the Andes, stands the most amazing archaeological structure chosen as one of the New 7 Wonders of the Modern World on July 7, 2007. This is the 15th-century Inca citadel located northwest of Cuzco on a mountain ridge 2,430 metres (7,970 feet) above sea level. This engineering work of art, balances on this ridge laid out in a series of terraces each one above the other. For over 500 years, the stonework supporting the layout stands with no mortar or cement. The ruins of Machu Picchu reveal the mysteries of the Inca Empire. 

Yes evidence of the pressure exerted by the weight of the soil and stone shows that not all were successful. With an average rainfall of 70 inches we can understand why. These terraces built for farming purposes were for the growing of potatoes and corn. Water was needed for growth but it also had to be managed. Too much water and the mountaintop were eroded, too little and the crops failed. Parts of the dwellings are 2 and 3 stories high. It is believed that Machu Picchu was constructed as an estate home for the supreme ruler or emperor Pachacuti 1438 - 1472. He was the single ruler of the Inca Empire. Addressed as Chief Inca, Son of the Sun or Lover of the Poor, thought to have descended from the Sun. Like the Pharaohs of Egypt he took his sister for his Queen in the belief of true royal blood. The small American Indian people built one of the largest tightly controlled empires the world has ever known. Their skill in Government was matched only by their feats of engineering. Walls, roads and irrigation works constructed by these crafts people are still in use today. To appreciate the Incas achievements it helps to visualize the different terrain of Peru. Some of the world's driest deserts, looking upwards as the land rises to the jagged peaks of the Andes mountain range. The Inca Empire had ruled a population of 12 million people.

With the invasion of the Spanish however in the 1500's South America was under serious danger of being overthrown. The Spanish first overcame the Aztec Empire in Mexico. Crossing over to the west they discovered the Pacific Ocean in 1513. Sailing down the coast over a number of expeditions they went as far as present day Colombia, later to Ecuador, then to Peru. Having heard of the wealth in Peru the Spanish governor financed Francisco Pizarro to explore it. In 1533 under the guise of an act of friendship the 13th emperor came to dinner with the Spaniard. The Spanish had an army of 180 trained soldiers. The Inca Emperor was ordered to take the bible and convert to the new religion, he refused and the Spanish army attacked leaving thousands of the unarmed Incas dead. The execution of Atahualpa, the last Inca Emperor, marked the end of 300 years of Inca civilization.

Machu Picchu was never reached by the Spanish conquistadors and lay abandoned to the world until 1911 when an American explorer Hiram Bingham reached there with the help of some local farmers who were struggling to survive generation after generation had seen the end of the glorious Inca Empire.

AFRICA AT ITS FINEST

Location: 
TANZANIA AND KENYA
Entry By: 
Joe

The Great Migration

This epic event, of millions of mammals thundering across the plains of Tanzania and Kenya, is one of the most spectacular sights that nature can offer. Over the months ahead various herds are forming. The one ingredient that it depends on is the weather. The migration has no time clock but as the scent of rain is in the wind the wildebeest get restless. Thousands upon thousands start to move and this event continues for months. 

Leading the charge are the Wildebeest, next their colleagues, the Zebras, followed by thousands of Antelope. Young and old alike gather on the dry plains of the Serengeti, to start the trek north in a clockwise direction in search of food and water in the eco-rich Masai Mara National Reserve in Kenya. The Great Migration is a journey of almost 2,000 miles, an ongoing event throughout the year. The best time to see the Great Migration in the Northern Serengeti and Masai Mara is between July and October.

Following closely are the Predators, Lions, Wild dogs, Leopards and Hyenas. You may witness a kill - that's nature. Now look, there's a newborn calf, it's first feed of colostrum and its ready to run with the herd. Only the strong survive, an estimated 250,000 Wildebeest are lost annually but their birth rate is close to 350,000, enough to compensate for the natural loss of the herd. Their demise on the journey is not in vain. The rivers of Grumeti and the Mara are filled with crocodiles and the currents are just as unforgiving but the corpses of these animals contribute to the rivers ecosystem by adding 1,000 ton of biomass to feed the Serengeti Plains.

Why do the Wildebeest and the Zebras travel together? One compliments the other. Grasses that one won't eat the other will. Directions are another. One's ability to detect danger. What is it with this mass migration? Simply put it's for food or the lack there of. Since time immemorial humans and animals alike follow the food chain. Why in such large numbers? Survival and safety in numbers, with predators following close, waiting for an opportunity.    

To watch this wonder is a lesson of nature in action. The Greatest show on earth has to be seen to be believed, and it's there on the plains of Africa. 

 

 

 

RIVER CRUISING - 4 INCREDIBLE COUNTRIES

Location: 
RHINE RIVER
Entry By: 
Sandy

We recently sailed the Rhine River with a wonderful Further Afield small group. 

We added extra time in Amsterdam and discovered the most amazing restaurant. The name of the restaurant is Long Pura, an Authentiek Indonesisch Restaurant. Don't be dissapointed, be sure to make a reservation. This restaurant is popular with locals.  Friendly people and fabulous food!

 

Watch for our next group sailing the Rhine on AmaWaterways. Here is what to expect:

Fabulous rooftop pools, jacuzzies, and wellness programs—plus their exquisite cuisine and delicious cocktail drinks available around-the-clock—it’s tempting to many to never leave the ship. But as much as they take pride in their impeccable service, we know that the main reason travelers choose a river cruise is because of the adventure—the amazing, breathtaking stops along the way. With that in mind, the countries you’ll explore with AmaWaterways on the Rhine are historic, romantic and truly awe-inspiring.

On an AmaWaterways cruise, you can choose from a selection of amazing tours, all of which highlight a unique aspect of Europe. With 25 incredible river cruise options throughout Europe, it can be a tough decision…but we knowthat we’ll find something that fits your budget, taste, and sense of adventure.

Do you want to spend more of your time in Switzerland, Germany or France? What about the Netherlands? Let’s take a closer look at our destinations on the Rhine River and you’ll see why our clients keep coming back for more.

Switzerland

A pristine alpine wonderland, Switzerland is beautiful any time of year.  It’s known for its snowy mountain caps in the winter and lush green hills in the summer. Whether you’re taking a scenic train ride through the Alps or traveling the Rhine by ship, Switzerland will have you wondering if you’ve walked straight into a fairytale.

Basel

Many river cruises on the Rhine start or end in Basel, a city known for its love of art and museums. The city has the highest concentration of museums in the country and is centered around a market square, making it perfectly easy to tour.

Basel is a fantastic representation of Switzerland as it’s situated right between France and Germany, two countries which have significantly influenced Swiss culture. Enjoy this melding of cultures as you dine alfresco at a cafe along the banks of the Rhine.

But why stop with Basel when there’s so much more of Switzerland to see. We’d recommend tacking on a trip to Lucerne or Zurich.

Lucerne

Lucerne is the ideal pitstop on your trek through Switzerland. Wandering through its majestic streets, you’ll encounter a city dotted with beautiful bridges, cafes and chocolate shops that will satisfy your sweet tooth.  A summer evening in Lucerne will make you never want to leave. Let’s book a ride on Lake Lucerne while we’re at it!

Zurich

The banking capital and economic hub of Switzerland, Zurich combines pre-medieval roots with modern-day business and entertainment.

In addition to its world-class shopping venues, there is plenty of sight-seeing to do.

From the Hauptbahnhof—Switzerland’s largest railway station—you can catch a train and be on a crisp, glistening mountain peak in a matter of minutes.  You can also explore the city’s incredible rivers and magnificent lake, which has superior water quality for swimming.  Whether its fine dining or hiking trails up Uetliberg, the perfect adventure is waiting for you in Zurich.

France

Parlez-vous français? Non? Well, no worries. A good translation app can do wonders to help you navigate the luscious countryside of France, and its mouthwatering cafes and menus. For its food, wine, and historic sights, we love this country for all the right reasons.

Wine & Dine

Wine and France go hand-in-hand, and if you haven’t had a bowl of French onion soup, you’re seriously missing out. Whether you’re stopping at a bakery in the morning for a fresh croissant and cafe au lait, a light lunch of a croque monsieur or a full 3-course French dinner, you will not be disappointed.

Book a Rhine River cruise with us and you’ll stop in Strasbourg, the capital city of the Alsace region and a charming city for a day trip. We’d recommend the Cave des Hospices for a wine tour and light beverage during the afternoon.

Leisure

If wine tasting isn’t your idea of a relaxing afternoon, there is no shortage of other soothing activities in Strasbourg. The Parc de l’Orangerie, Parc de la Citadelle and the botanical gardens are all equally serene places for an afternoon walk or bike ride.

Shopping

Are you looking for modern stores, local boutiques or street markets? You can find them all in Strasbourg.  Most of Strasbourg’s old town is centered on Grande Île, an island in the middle of the city.

Christmas markets in Strasbourg are so popular you can find them any time of year. Make your way to the southwest corner of the Grande Île to Un Noël en Alsace to browse Christmas decor. And if you happen to be in Strasbourg during the holiday season, we recommend a glass of vin chaud (mulled wine) to keep you warm along the way.

Germany

Traveling to Germany usually takes tourists to Berlin, Munich and other metropolitan areas. On a river cruise with AmaWaterways, however, you’ll experience a whole new side of the country—one that is more traditional and inviting.

Cruising down the Rhine, you’ll see cultural hubs as well as quaint cities you may not otherwise experience. Rüdesheim and Cologne both offer a variety of entertainment including local musicians and museums, providing for a well-rounded German experience.

Rüdesheim

Rüdesheim is a charming little city on the Rhine known for its production of Reisling wine. The first thing you’ll notice here is the beautiful combination of history and modern winemaking. Cobblestone streets and medieval-style castles lie just outside the vineyards and tasting rooms of Rüdesheim.

During the stop in Rüdesheim, you can choose between Siegfried’s Mechanical Musical Instrument Museum, a gondola ride or a wine tasting hike through the vineyards.

Our favorite way to spend time here is to take the cable car over the vineyards, up to the Niederwald monument and then stop at the local shops on the way back to the ship.

Cologne

A 2,000-year-old city, Cologne is best known for its colorful rows of houses and its famous Christmas markets.  In contrast to the small-town charm of Rüdesheim, Cologne is a much larger city and cultural hub of this area of Germany.

Where Rüdesheim is medieval and rustic, Cologne is more Gothic and modern. Visible from the Rhine River, the Cologne Cathedral is a must-see landmark. Its two towers are still some of the largest peaks in the city.

The stop in Cologne offers the options of a Holy City walking tour and cathedral visit, Kölsch Beer tasting or Cologne bike tour.

The Netherlands

What better way to end the Enchanting Cruise than right in the heart of the Netherlands- Amsterdam.

A city known for its red-light district and overall carefree way of life, Amsterdam offers an incredible array of cultural experiences. Cruising one of the world’s most elaborate canal systems will show you much of the beauty this city has to offer.

If you prefer to observe the canals by land, you can opt for a tour through the bohemian neighborhood of Jordaan, which boasts trendy cafes, eateries, and shops. After grabbing a coffee, head to one of the many historical landmarks in this part of town. The Anne Frank House is located just outside Jordaan and across from the historical Westerkerk Cathedral where Rembrandt was buried in 1669.
 
The People

The people in the Netherlands are truly some of the kindest and friendly people in Europe. Described as modest, direct and very prompt, don’t be surprised by how welcomed you feel in this city.

The Food

One of the most pleasant surprises of a trip Amsterdam is the food. If you’re craving something with a pinch of salt, we would recommend Bitterballen (deep-fried meatballs), kibbeling (deep-fried fish) or snert (split pea soup).

After dinner, enjoy a variety of different sweets including Dutch licorice, poffertjes (puffy pancakes) or stroopwafels(remember to eat them hot and gooey).

The Creativity

You will find more peculiar shops and art displays in Amsterdam than almost anywhere else in the world. From stores with cows on the ceiling to mouse mansions and displays dedicated entirely to tulips, entertainment in Amsterdam lies around every corner.

These are just a few of the amazing destinations on a Rhine River cruise. Which country is calling your name? Although I enjoyed all of the countries, my favourite is the Netherlands. Give us a call today to talk about all the options available! Or maybe you would like to come along with one of our small groups.

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